Friday, October 12, 2007

Vers Enfer




Rallye Voltaire

Sunday morning darkness. Not yet seven, I air up the tires, give the brake levers a squeeze and ease out of L'Etang la Ville on quiet streets. The night before Les Bleus, the national rugby team, had upset the New Zealand All Blacks in an exciting quarterfinal game of the World Cup. An American equivalent might be... I really can't think of one. All of France had been celebrating into the night and now they were sleeping.

Climbing up to the Place Royale in St. Germain en Laye, the air is warmer and completely clear. Light shimmers on the newly washed streets and the rondpoint itself, its cobbles a tad slippery as I bounce through and take the first exit and descend to the Seine. The lights of Paris sparkle through the trees lining the road on my right and a monolithic stone wall rises to my left. With no cars, I let loose and feel the bike lean into the hairpin turns until the road runs out into a straight to the bridge.

The Pont Georges Pompidou is one of the gates into the city of Paris. Two large women recline in granite splendor on each side and a confusing array of traffic furniture and concrete islands sort the traffic as it enters the bridge. Just a bicycle on the bridge and the fog coming off the cool river water. Across the bridge, the city begins, a succession of shops one after the other, lights or feus (fires) as French call them. I take the first hard left onto Avenue Jean Jaures and continue through the melee to Sartrouville to meet my friend and his club from Houilles.

The rallye is hosted the local cycle club in Sartrouville, Ass Cyclo, and begins at the RER train station. I arrive early and knots of riders have assembled around the entrance. A registration table is set up and a some older gentleman wearing ASS CYCLO jerseys and jeans are busy registering riders. The start is from 7 until 9, and the Houilles club is ready to go at eight. Jean Manuel greets me and introduces me to his club members. The only rider not in a yellow and blue kit, I'm a bit of an ugly duckling, but I count in their club's attendance numbers and they pay my inscription.

To be an etranger (foreigner) in France, still learning the language, can be difficult, but JM and his club welcome me. And they wait for me as well. A few miles into the ride, my front tire goes soft and JM yells 'craivasson!' and the whole Houilles group pulls to the side of the road. I hope it's just an intermittent problem with the valve, and we reinflate the tire with a pump and continue. In a kilometer, one of the other members yells 'craivasson!' again, and this time I pull out my spare. The slower riders continue, we'll catch them up the road. Several people are handing me pumps and advice as I pull off the tubular. 'Boyeaux!' It seems I'm a constant source of fascination, as is my CO2 inflator. Five minutes and we're back on the road and I move towards the front to break some of the wind and pay back something for the comradery I've been shown.

There are three routes today: 50k, 75k and one ominously labled 100k+. Ominous as well in the first direction on this route, 'Continuer vers Enfer', 'Keep going towards Hell.' But we're not there yet, we're busy climbing out of the Seine Valley on a road that is pitching 15%. JM told me yesterday on a ride that there really wasn't a need for a compact crank here in the north of France; there were no hills. But as we labor at the front of the group, he admits that a compact might be nice.

I'm feeling good. Two days of spinning, a few hours of sleep (damn that jet lag), and the excitement of riding in a group, put me on the front with Jean Pierre and Gerry, two grimpers (climbers). Each might weigh 140lbs. Maybe. The air is still cool, just pushing into the 50's as the sun begins clearing the trees. The roads flatten after a few more rises out of the valley and we reach another climb at Boisemont.

Mont means mountain, but mountain is a relative term. In the Paris area, there are no mountains, but if one is used to flat riding, or if you're riding with two miniature hellions on carbon Giants, you might as well be in the Alps. The sound of quickly receding gasping told me that we were by ourselves half of the way up the climb. I followed with my front wheel just off of Jean Pierre's left shoulder, knowing that we had a long way left and that sometimes I couldn't trust the positive reports my brain sent me from the legs. After the crest, the club regroups. We've long since rejoined, and then dropped, the slower riders that continued after my flat, but all of come together again in time for the first Ravitaillement (refreshment stop) at Damply.

Paper cups with a foul tasting lime drink have been placed in rows, dense bread, square chunks of cake and pieces of chocolate have been placed on the tables. Again, there are more non-cycling volunteers, dressed in jeans and wearing the sponsoring club's long sleeved jerseys. Warm smiles and encouragement from the support people, joking and comments about the climbing amongst the riders and JM nudges me when he sees the 'fast guys' mount and depart. We follow toute suite.

The warmth of the sun removed my vest before we left and now I'm considering the arm warmers as well. There's not much room in the pockets; my three jam sandwiches still uneaten, so I resolve to eat one, make some room and then take off the warmers, a nice mental project as the road levels out and we are rolling through the french countryside towards Nucourt. The towns and villages come fast, one every six or seven kilometers it seems. Le Bellay, Bercagny, Moussy, Gouzangrez, Villeneuve St. Martin, Jambville. The village of Enfer isn't so terrible as it might seem and I make a note to check it out on wikipedia.fr when I get a chance. It's impossible to focus on much besides the movement of the body on the bicycle, the rear wheel or our fast friends, or eating a sandwich while travelling at 25mph.

At the second ravitaillment (RAVITO, on the map), I remove the warmers and tightly roll everything again and cram my pockets full. The remaining two sandwiches are perched in the middle pocket on top of a vest, cell phone and cleat covers. Do the French carry so much on their rides? The camera stays in its own pocket on the right and the arm warmers join the keys, money and hat in the left. JM has a waist pack on as well and now I understand why. I grab a cake and have a mouth of dry crumbs when we scramble again to catch on with the first group.

The group accelerates to climb and as I stand up, my sandwiches break free and tumble out of the rear pocket. A split second as I weigh retrieval of the sandwiches with chasing back on to this group, and the sandwiches lose. "Da rien," I shout, "It's nothing," and don't find out until later that JM didn't hear me. He was busy running over the sandwiches, stopping, putting them in his jersey and then unsuccessfully chasing our group for the next 20 kilometers. My attention is glued to the front riders who are taking turns trying to put the other seven or so riders under pressure. They are succeeding; as we are soon down to five or six.

I follow in the wheels, sometimes third, sometimes fifth or sixth. There isn't much draft behind the two tiny guys trying to inflict the pain, but a larger rider from the Houilles club is still in there, (he's been on my wheel most of the morning) and the his draft is like relaxing in a soft breeze.

The sun is warm now and we're heading back to Sartrouville along the Seine, dodging large concrete planters, old people, children, dogs and cyclists going less than twenty-five. I'm rested, and decide to inflict pain on the little climbers. JM has rejoined us, inadvertently taking a short cut and popping up suddenly. I apologize for his effort and he hands me my sandwiches, one sliced in half by his front wheel. He and I and the other Houilles rider who is larger, ride on the front, taking pulls and keeping the speed high, occasionally shouting, 'Attention, les enfants' or 'deucement, deucement' when a stoplight interfered with our pace. We dropped the grimpeurs a couple of times and at the end, one slapped me on the back, 'Vous roulez bien aujoudhui!'

Indeed, it was a good roll today.

4:54, 82.4 miles, 3300ft.

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