La Vallee Verde

Two days of traveling and meeting students and administrators and a completely screwed up sleep schedule, one day 12 hours the next zero, has left me with a burning need to get on the bike after lunch today. The normally cold and wet Vendee weather is just cool today, with clouds and sun taking turns. Lunch is a wonderful fruits de mer pizza with shrimp, clam, oyster and other indeterminate seafoody things baked in the mozzarella and camembert. A small flask of vin rouge and a lunch companion from ICES and the table is set.

Later, on the bike and wandering the road through the Vallee Verde, our conversation comes in and out of mental focus, like the light squeezing in between the clouds and canopy overhanging the road. Andrew is an avid cyclist himself and much of our conversation touched on his cycling routine over the summer, old tours I've taken in the states and, of course the current issue with doping in cycling. This is the third or fourth time the issue has come up, and although many cyclists take the same line, 'I'm just concerned with my own riding now and really am not interested in the pros,' deep down we're all vested in all of the levels of the sport.

The road climbs and drops on the road to St Martinet. Beaulieu sous la Roche is gorgeous. I stop on the bridge crossing the river Yon and by chance catch sight of a chateau through the branches. Quelle suprise! Then the road climbs for good out of the Yon valley and I'm twisting on the D42 onward to St. Martinet and Les Chapelles.

I defend Floyd. Not because I think he's innocent exactly, but because I think that professionals today have to sell their soul to a system that at once gives them an amazing lifestyle while exposing them to the possibility of total ruin. There is no union to allow cyclists to assert their rights and now they even have to sign over a year's wages if there is a positive test. What other sport does that? Are the tests fair? Is the process just? If the USADA is now 36 and 0 in its cases against athletes is this telling us how perfect their system is or how weighted against the athlete things have become?

At La Chapelle, I turn briefly north, change my mind about going all the way to Apresmont, and take the Commune road, barely one lane wide, to Aizenay and the Sentiers cyclable, the railes to trails route to La Roche sur Yon. Today and tomorrow will be shorter rides; I'm planning a longer one on Saturday.

It's about six in the evening when I hit the trail at Aizenay and find the evening couples out for a stroll, groups of elderly hikers out for a club stroll and many single parents, riding without helmets, paired with tiny french cyclists wearing helmets and astride tiny bikes. The future peloton.